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Wool Stocktake : AWI Annual Report 2017-18
Yarn Developments with: • Wool/Graphene • Wool/Kapok • Wool/Dryarn • Performance yarns for footwear – shoes and socks • Performance yarns for seamless, warp knits and flat-knit developments. Circular knits • New supply from emerging markets such as Vietnam and increased product development in southern India and Japan. Seamless, warp-knit seamless and flat-knit • Direct product development with machinery companies: STOLL, Santoni and Shima Seiki. Warp-knits • Developments continue in both Asia and Europe for compression wear. Woven • Further developments using Optim technology have resulted in further innovative fabrics with the benefit of wind and water resistance. Footwear • Footwear is a growth area for global fashion and sports brands and AWI continues to research and develop shoes in wool and wool blends. • Performance sock developments is also a growth area as well as compression tights, socks and hiking calf sleeves. Novel Technologies With the growing global trend and interest in wearable technologies, AWI has commenced research and development in: • Smart/wearable technologies: textiles with the capability to react to different kinds of physical stimuli, for example temperature, pressure etc. • Interactive textiles: wearable technologies which are sewn into clothing and operated or controlled by an integrated control panel or operation button. • 3-D printing. • Conductive yarns with wool. These applications are relevant and have great potential for the sports and outdoor market as well as the healthcare sector. Examples of direct product developments with brands: Sports/outdoor • Nike • Burton • Adidas • Salomon • Black Diamond • Hurley • APL • Rapha • Converse • WearableX • Skechers • World Surf League • ashmei • Outerknown Fashion • Max Mara • Eddie Bauer • Ralph Lauren • Muji • Tommy Hilfiger • Raymonds • Woolrich • NAGNATA Other • 5.11 Tactical • Mini • Tesla Neulana Double fabric. Following the commercial success of the initial Neulana Protect fabric, AWI and Nanshan have developed a new double-faced pure wool fabric manufactured using Optim technology. The latest innovation, called Neulana Double, is a 100% wool fabric with two very different surfaces. While the outer face is the same as the initial Neulana fabric and therefore smooth, the inner side is soft, lofty and brushed, and is suitable next to skin. By using special treatment technology, a loose-yet-full structure is formed inside the yarn on the inner side of the fabric, raising the ratio of fabric volume to weight. The result is an air-like, soft handle with voluminous characteristics. What is of particular interest is that whilst this fabric appears to be bonded, it is actually woven and so eliminates the need for any synthetics, glue, membrane or lining, and is suitable for high-end casual jackets. Neulana Double was launched and showcased by AWI to the textile trade in September 2017 at the Première Vision trade show in Paris. Wool footwear. AWI's technical team has been working to create shoes that are not only comfortable and allow your foot to breathe, but are also resistant to odour and wick away moisture. Working closely with leading knitting machine manufacturers – such as Shima Seiki, STOLL and Santoni – AWI has created several footwear prototypes using advanced wool yarns to enhance the inherent benefits of the fibre. For example, by combining yarns together and 3D knitting, the entire upper can be free of cutting and sewing. Comfortable for wearing next to skin by using a 100% Merino wool yarn as an inner surface layer, the latest spinning technology helps to knit the fabric onto the outer face of the shoes' upper, enhancing the abrasion resistance. 48 REPORT OF 2017/18 OPERATIONS – PROCESSING INNOVATION & EDUCATION EXTENSION
AWI Annual Report 2016-17