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Wool Stocktake : AWI Annual Report 2017-18
PROCESSING INNOVATION STRATEGY EXPENDITURE DURING 2017/18 $1,607,000 project expenditure INVESTMENT FOCUS Fashion Development of new product marketing tools for each autumn/winter retail selling season with the focus on separates, and functional finishes. Identify a group of retailers and brands best placed to understand and adopt new innovations. Novel Technologies Develop and commercialise new manufacturing processes, either machinery or chemical based, which lead to new novel products in wool and opens opportunities in new market segments for wool. Working in partnership along the supply chain, innovations will focus on a combination of wool’s natural inherent properties, and engineering the wool fibre, yarns, fabrics and garments to enhance these properties or adding new ones. Sportswear Develop new product ‘fit for purpose’ ranges aimed at Outdoor (focus on protection), Running (focus on moisture management and temperature control) and Athleisure (focus on odour and moisture management, stretch and recovery for comfort). STRATEGIC TARGETS Targets for three-year period 2016/17 to 2018/19 Progress during 2017/18 1. Develop and commercialise 6 new processes and transfer to 15 manufacturers, yielding an average mill profit increase exceeding $20,000 by 2019. In progress. Continued developments for new processes from early stage processing, print and dye technologies, speciality coatings and treatments. ECO friendly processes continue to be researched. 2. Develop 4 innovations and transfer to 33 manufacturers, yielding an average mill profit increase exceeding $20,000 by 2019. In progress. Working in partnership along the supply chain, innovations are focused on whole dressing in key market sectors – sports and outdoor, menswear, womenswear and wearable technologies. Wool is being adopted as a performance, technical fibre. KEY RESULTS DURING 2017/18 PROCESS INNOVATION • Trials with ECO water proof treatments for fabric and footwear are still under way. • Non-chlorination treatments for washable wool continue. • Trials for e-Flow dyeing and ozone treatment with Jeanologia for shrink proof wool continue: o Ozone treatment of wool to control wool shrinkage and allow for machine washable wool product to be produced in a more sustainable and environmentally friendly way o Dyeing of washable wool with eflow which will be translated into enormous savings in water and energy. • Trials for double face print technologies being refined. • Cold dyeing on wool top to develop vintage yarn for next to skin developments. • Waterless ECO digital printing technology with nano-pigment printing. • Ultra sonic bonding application for sports shoes and garments with Framis. • Digital Prints on suiting fabrics with Tintoria Finasaggio 2000. • Working with Tollegno for bonding membrane trials on flat knit fabrics to increase performance. • Bonding and laminations. • Trials under way using a Plasma machine to increase water repellency of wool by fibre surface modification. • Natural dyeing. PRODUCT INNOVATION With the continued growth in the sports/outdoor markets, AWI continues to focus on innovative product developments in wool. AWI’s global technical team is working throughout the supply chain with two approaches: supply chain up and designer/brand down through supply chain. • Working with machinery companies such as STOLL, Santoni, Shima Seiki for developments in seamless, warp-knit seamless and flat-knits. • Working with spinners to create innovative yarns. • Working with knitters and weavers. • Working with dyers, printers and processes for special finishes and treatments. These innovations are then fed up the supply chain and presented to global designers and brands. AWI also works directly with designers and brands to support direct product development back through the supply chain to realise commercial products in a shorter timeframe. REPORT OF 2017/18 OPERATIONS – PROCESSING INNOVATION & EDUCATION EXTENSION 47
AWI Annual Report 2016-17